Lowcountry

By Mark A. Leon

Charleston, South Carolina, a city that breathes history and exudes charm, has transcended its cultural roots to become a global epicenter of culinary delight.

This 354-year-old city has seen its ups and downs but has remained resolve in its strength of character and tradition.  As a shipping port, beach destination, medical and academic center of excellence and historic vacation spot, Charleston has been warming the hearts of locals and tourists hitting record numbers year over year in new residency and tourism with no signs of slowing down.

At the heart of all of this is the food and beverage Industry which is fueled by a generous blend of community, diversity, giving, and an unwavering commitment to exceptional customer service.

Unveiling the Recipe:

To dissect the secrets of this success formula, we engaged with three influential figures shaping the Charleston food community: Alyssa Maute Smith, Executive Director of Charleston Wine + Food Festival; Raheel Gauba, Co-owner and Creative Director behind Malika Canteen and Ma’am Saab in Mount Pleasant and downtown Charleston and Jai Jones, Board Member of Pay It Forward Charleston.

Community: A City-Wide Family Reunion

Scheduled from March 6-10, 2024, the festival hosts a staggering 109 unique events, ranging from intimate gatherings to grand celebrations, all orbiting around the theme of the gift of food and culture.  For these five glorious days each spring, Charleston becomes a destination as popular as Mardi Gras and as cultured as Monaco.  As you peel the layers, you will see that this Great Charleston Get Together is so much more than a festival.

As Charleston metamorphoses into a culinary haven every spring during the Charleston Wine + Food Festival. Alyssa Smith, the festival’s Executive Director, paints a vivid picture of it being a intimate reunion, embodying the ambitious spirit of an event that celebrates the essence of this charming town.

“It is an aspirational event that celebrates our small town.” adds Alyssa, “The festival is the catalyst, the effect is the community.  Each year, it feels like a city-wide family reunion. It’s a place to re-connect with friends and gain new ones.”

By its core definition, the word “Food” means any nutritious substance that people, animals, or plants absorb to maintain life and growth, but Alyssa and her team see food as telling a story and the audience as interactive participants along the journey.  Each recipe, whether innovative or carried down from generations, is a visual story and the festival has a responsibility to be the storytellers carrying on legacies and unveiling the new faces yet undiscovered.

Key Highlights of Charleston Wine + Food Festival:

• Collaboration with charitable organizations throughout the Lowcountry.
• Committed focus on philanthropy and education.
• Donations of $450,000+ for charity and scholarships to date.
• Provide paid externship experiences working with chefs and nurturing the next workforce.
• A large food donor to One80 Place, with unused non-perishable items benefiting the organization.
• Implements robust sustainability practices through a partnership with Bees Ferry Compost.

The true value and legacy of the Charleston Wine + Food Festival is rooted in a sense of belonging. In its genesis, the festival was centered on community—a celebration of the food and beverage community and a tool for national awareness.

From its origins in 2005, when the festival amplified Charleston on the national food map, to its status as a culinary darling to the rest of the country, this has been a journey of love. Alyssa Maute Smith believes that the visionary chefs, servers, hosts, managers, sous chefs, prep cooks, and all others behind the scenes have made this city a “delicious” destination. Amplifying and telling their stories have been a rewarding endeavor.

Another immeasurable facet of the Charleston food community unique success is strength in numbers by choosing collaboration over competition. Based on a study by the College of Charleston in 2023, the hospitality trade had a record-breaking $12.8 billion economic impact on the region in 2022. The delicate ecosystem of Charleston food and beverage is made of a tapestry of brick and mortar, food trucks, market vendors, artisans, farmers, distilleries, and breweries co-existing and working together in partnership for the greater good, not individual gain.

This is something that cannot be measured because in times of need, these collaborations have kept small business owners open and kept the confidence of the consumers high.  That is truly community.

Diversity: A Tapestry of Culinary Experiences

Charleston’s culinary landscape, often synonymous with traditional Southern cuisine, has undergone a delicious revolution, welcoming a diverse array of flavors that cater to an ever-expanding palette. Key players at the leading-edge of this culinary transformation are Raheel Gauba (Co-owner and Creative Director) and Chef Maryam Ghaznavi (Executive Chef and Co-Owner) of Malika Canteen and Ma’am Saab, providing a unique taste of Pakistan in the heart of downtown Charleston and Mount Pleasant, South Carolina.

In a candid conversation with Raheel Gauba, we delved into the acceptance of Pakistani food in a city deeply rooted in its culinary traditions. Gauba, radiating passion for his craft, shared insights into the factors contributing to the success of bringing Pakistani cuisine to the forefront of Charleston’s food scene.

Charleston’s growing diversity has played a pivotal role in the success of ventures like Malika and Ma’am Saab. Gauba expressed gratitude for being part of the culinary revolution that has unfolded in recent years, bringing a distinct flavor to Charleston’s gastronomic landscape. Unapologetically authentic, Gauba emphasized, “We don’t change our cuisine to make it more palatable for someone who hasn’t heard of Pakistani dishes before, and we’re proud of that.”

The evolving demographics of Charleston have played a crucial role in reshaping the industry. With more diversity than ever before, the newly shaping residency and national/international tourism explosion is actively seeking not only variety in flavors but also a sense of belonging and community. Gauba noted, “The growth in the population here has changed the industry. There is more diversity here than ever before, and they’re looking for community, belonging, and variety.”

The Importance of Diversity for Charleston

When asked about the significance of this culinary evolution for Charleston, Gauba passionately stated, “It’s so important, especially with the overwhelmingly welcoming and accepting community here. We’ve experienced so much support with our diverse cuisine in Charleston and have proudly set an example for more concepts like ours to find their home here.”

According to Gauba, adding more dimensions to an already fantastic culinary scene can only benefit owners and diners alike. Charleston’s openness to embracing diverse flavors not only enhances the city’s global culinary profile but also creates a more enriching experience for residents and visitors alike.

Overcoming Challenges: A Journey of Support and Collaboration

Opening a restaurant that introduces a new culinary experience is not without its challenges. Gauba acknowledged the difficulties faced in gaining acceptance but emphasized the crucial role played by an army of generous industry and subject matter experts. Brokers, business leaders, culinary experts, and marketing professionals—all were vital components of turning a passion for Pakistani cuisine into a robust reality.

Connecting with the Customer: Education and Approachability

Moving beyond the challenges of establishment, the focus for Malika and Ma’am Saab shifted to connecting and relating to their customers. Gauba highlighted the importance of educating the community about Pakistani culture and cuisine to make the experience approachable rather than intimidating. “We made a big effort to feel approachable and personal—we loved (and continue to enjoy) getting to know our guests,” Gauba added.

In the heart of downtown Charleston and Mount Pleasant, Ma’am Saab and Malika Canteen stand as a testament to the area’s culinary evolution. By embracing diversity, fostering community, and staying true to the authenticity of Pakistani cuisine, Gauba and his team have not only introduced a new flavor to Charleston but have become pioneers inspiring other concepts to find their place in this ever-expanding culinary landscape. The triumph of Pakistani cuisine in Charleston serves as a shining example of how diversity, when embraced, becomes a vibrant thread in the rich tapestry of a city’s culinary identity.

Diversity in the Charleston Food Industry was always in the cards.

The rise in international cuisine in the Lowcountry has been a remarkable transformation, but in a way, it was always to be part of our storyline.  During our discussion with Alyssa, she reminded us that “when we harken back to Charleston being an international port city and all the cuisines, cultures, spices, and styles of cooking finding their way through this port, we are just finding our way back to our roots through various movements of people and ideas.”  

Giving: Serving Those Who Serve Us

Jai Jones, Charleston-based food writer and photographer with an infectious smile and heart of gold, joined the Board of Directors of Pay It Forward to help shape an organization that addressed the often-overlooked efforts of restaurant workers and responded with a heartfelt initiative. In 2020, Pay It Forward Charleston founded a grocery assistance program between farmers, restaurants, and the community to support those in the food and beverage industry during the challenging times of the pandemic.

In 2021, Jones joined the Board of Directors of Pay It Forward Charleston, as they pivoted to expand the non-profit in also providing need-based grants to people in the F&B community to assist them in times of need.

“For me, being associated with the food and beverage community as a writer and photographer for several years, I saw firsthand the impact that the COVID-19 crisis had on the F&B community and was grateful to be asked to join the organization soon after it began,” said Jones. With many in the F&B community not having the traditional benefits that come with other industries, it is important to ensure that resources are available when unforeseen issues occur.”

Pay It Forward Charleston Highlights:

• Distributed over 11,000 bags of groceries in 2020.
• Raised an impressive $100,000 during the pandemic.
• Established an Emergency Relief Fund providing need-based grants to Food & Beverage (F&B) community members.
• Committed to “serving those who serve us” by assisting with medical expenses, financial hardships, and unforeseen challenges.

As Charleston’s culinary scene continues to evolve, the city’s commitment to community, diversity, and giving serves as a beacon, inspiring not only the local industry but also setting a standard for culinary excellence on the global stage.

The Charleston Food Industry’s success story is a testament to the transformative power of a shared love for food and a collective commitment to making a positive impact. In the simmering pots and sizzling grills of Charleston, a culinary masterpiece is being crafted—one that transcends borders and leaves an indelible mark on the world’s palate.

When you follow your food heart, it most likely will lead you to Charleston.  Whether your personal journey to Charleston  begins with the exploration of history, beach, surf, shopping or Southern Charm, the food will become the ultimate love affair.

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Photos courtesy of Charleston Wine + Food, Pay it Forward Charleston and Ma’am Saab